Step-By-Step Instructions - Fitting Your Reproduction Shoe Buckles
Anatomy of an 18th Century Shoe Buckle
Here are the parts of an 18th century shoe buckle. You will use both the tongue and the chape to close your shoes.
For most of the styles we offer, there are no left and right buckles. Simply flip the chape and tongue for use on the right or left shoe. However, some styles (such as our Pearl Buckle that has a bow at the bottom) do have a right buckle and a left buckle so that the bow design doesn't end up flipped upside down!
Step-By-Step Instructions - Fitting Your Reproduction Shoe Buckles
1. Fit the Buckle to Your Foot
While wearing your shoe, adjust the buckle to your preferred fit. You can do this yourself or ask someone to help ensure the correct placement.
2. Mark the Chape Position
Slide the shorter bottom latchet through the chape until it locks securely. Center the buckle on your foot and mark the position of the chape spikes.
3. Punch the Chape Holes
Using an awl or leather punch, create holes approximately 1/4" behind the marked spike positions. Insert the chape spikes through the holes and verify that the buckle sits centered on the shoe.
4. Attach the Top Latchet
Feed the longer top latchet through the buckle frame and pull it back tightly to determine the correct position.
5. Mark the Tongue Spike Position
Mark the location of the tongue spikes on the underside of the long latchet to prepare for the final attachment.
6. Punch the Tongue Holes
Using an awl or leather punch, create holes approximately 1/4" behind the marked tongue spike positions.
There you have it!
Complete the Buckle Installation
Secure the tongue spikes into the punched holes, then feed the latchet over the pin and through the buckle frame to complete the closure.
Helpful hints:
- The chape will tightly squeeze the bottom latchet on Georgiana and Devonshire shoes, but you may find latchets on stiffer leather shoes difficult to compress. To seat the latchet into the chape securely, knotch the sides of your stiff leather latchets.
- You want a fairly snug fit the first time you fit your buckles. The latchets will conform over time and loosen slightly.
- The tongue and chape spikes on both Fleur and Dauphine buckles are the same, so you can interchange your buckles without having to pierce new holes.